Thecar just came out of shop make a runner around town as the car as been instorage 15 years.Fuelsystem: Added another fuel filter, etchedout fuel tank, cleaned all linesEngine: Says all good for the 255 Flathead (around 120Ktotal miles)Tranny: Installed new clutch, fixed The shifters (threeon the tree) they were worn and loose, sometimes stuck between gearsCooling: New AL radiator (3 core), the old original 4 corewas cracked and un repairable. Water pumps are fine. These old flatheads have 2water pumps one for each bank of cylinders and the 255 (Merc) flathead usesdifferent water pumps than the std ford 235 flatty. They are expensive and hardto find.Electrical: New battery, fixing the temp gauge (the car isconverted from 6 V Positive ground to 12 V negative ground)Ignition: Fixed the Mallory pointless distributor. (So younever deal with Points and condenser) TheCar: Mod'sSuspension: Lowered in front with reversespindles, Rear with a single leaf spring and spacers. It will barely go overspeed bumps. The front fenders need to be rolled or trimmed to allow lock tolock movement with suspension travel.Tires: Good to go, 4” wide white walls,new. I had the car up on jacks for 15 years so they are not flat spottedExhaust: Recommend either careful driving or change the plumbing ofthe left bank exhaust. The 3” exhaust tips. True 1950’swould be 2: exhaust, they are a little low when you go up a ramp, or on atruck, might want to angle cut them.Flamethrowers: Oldschool, two coils mounted under the rear bumper, spark plug in each exhaust atthe 3” tips. Switch under the dash. To operate, rev engine, pull switch and pumpthe gas, The switch cuts OFF the Ignition coil and lights off the exhaustcoils, once engine nears idle release switch and engine coil takes over.Engine: Installed off intake manifold with a 350CFM Holley 4BBL.Replumbed exhaust breather back into intake this stops the exhaust breatheroverboard. Flattys are rare and expensive to get parts these days. But theysound really good.Tranny: The car has an electricoverdrive. There is a handle below dash you pull to go into overdrive for highspeed (i.e. 60 MPH), like a 4th gear The electrical overdrive is engaged bylifting throttle in 3rd gear, listen for shift then back on throttle.Brakes: New master cylinder (One, nodual circuit safety like new cars). New wheel cylinders, new brake pads allaround. These are manual brakes so you push hard. Steering: No mod’s no power, just a bigass wheel to turn.Stereo: 10 disk CD changer in trunk with remote in glovebox,speakers on rear deckFenderskirts: Inthe back deck, easy to installAllmod’s have instructions in bindersInterior: All interior trim is in boxesready for a new interior.Thecar is setup to be like a kid in the early 60’s would have set it up. i.e“Ganster"Body: Rust in all 4 fender wells. If you go hot rod abody shop could clear it during paint. The paint is 10 coats of black lacquer,needs to come off or leave rat rod. Some bondo on front finders, can be clearswith body WhatI would do:Fixbroken glass: Go to glass shop and have them cut andfit safety glass on windows where glass is brokenFitinterior pieces so glass will not be lose and breaks againFixthe front fenders (grind out or roll out to better fit Tires)Driveit for a while and decide if you want a rat rod or a hot rod.Parts:Extra Transmission, Extra Steering Column, See Photos for more details. Documentation: Anything that ever took place on this car has a record, even down to original fuel log and receipts. |