Chevrolet Camaro 1967

28500 USD

CAR DESCRIPTION FROM SELLER
1967 Camaro$29,500 oboPlease read my entire listing before contacting me!!!!! I am also selling the car locally so I reserve the right to end the eBay listing at any time. For sale is my 1967 Camaro SS. I’ve had this car since 2011, but it’s time to sale it so I can free up funds for another toy. The car has extensive modifications and turns heads and starts conversations wherever it goes. It’s a beautiful car that makes tremendous power, but it is by no means perfect. I say this not to scare anyone away, but I want to be completely up front and honest about what the car has and also what the car needs. The items the car needs are all relatively inexpensive. I just don’t have the motivation or the time to spend the money and purchase and install the parts to complete the build. I’ll start by listing everything done to the car and then go into more detail about specific areas and things that need to be addressed.Fuel injected 427 cubic inch Chevy small block making 540hp on an engine dyno (dyno video available upon request)Dart SHP blockProbe SRS forged pistons (10.75:1 compression)Scat forged rodsScat forged crankshaftAFR cylinder headsCustom Howard’s Cams camshaft (aggressive, lopey idle)Howard’s Tie-bar liftersScorpion roller rockers Melling oil pumpChampion 8 quart oil panMSD Streetfire distributorFiTech Meanstreet EFI fuel systemPolished single plane intake manifold Billet accessory driveHooker competition headersPypes Violator 3” exhaustStainless steel fuel tankMoser Ford 9” with fabricated housing and 4:11 gearsTh350 transmissionHughes torque converterDetroit Speed could springs in the front and rear leaf springsHotchkis subframe connectorsBoss 338 18” wheels (the wheels are currently plastidipped black but are gunmetal with a polished lip underneath. I wanted to see what it would look like with black wheels and never got around to removing the plastidip. It can be removed easily with a mild solvent such as wd40.)Paint and bodyThe paint job is in good condition with a few minor blemishes (a couple of minor chips that have been touched up and light scratches). The paint would benefit from and good buff from a detailer or someone experienced with a buffer. This isn’t a show car, it’s a driver’s car, but still shows well. The paint job was on the vehicle when I purchased it in 2011 and there is no bondo to my knowledge. There is one spot on the floor pan that was cut out and a new piece welded in at some point in the cars life.InteriorThe interior is in fair to good condition. There aren’t any rips, tears, or cracks in the upholstery, it’s just older. The chrome knobs are putting and the air vents are chipped up. It could also use new seatbelts. Headliner is in great shape.ElectricalThe car does have issues with the electrical system that have all manifested over the last couple of years. The turn signal switch is broken and the speedometer and fuel gauges no longer light up. On two occasions in the 8 years I’ve owned the car the headlights have suddenly stopped working for a short period of time. I would strongly recommend replacing the entire vehicle wiring harness with a Painless or American Autowire kit. These kits are relatively cheap (less than $500) and all of the car’s electrical issues would be fixed. Also, the aftermarket oil pressure, temperature, and voltage gauge lights are not hooked up. I rarely drive the car at night so I didn’t plan on booking them up until I replaced the wiring harness. EngineThe engine has no stories. It has less than 5000 miles on it, runs strong, and makes plenty of power.it was built by Skip White Performance outbid Kingsport, TN and has a FiTech fuel injection system on it.Drivetrain The transmission should be replaced. The car drives fine with the one in it, but the engine makes way too much power for the little th350 to handle and it slips once it hits second gear. I can replace it with a built FTI th400 if the buyer chooses, but the price will reflect it. The rearend is bulletproof and has less than 300 miles on it.SuspensionThe front end is sloppy and no longer holds alignment. The front tie rod ends, ball joints, and bushings should be replaced. Full kits are available for less than $300.MiscellaneousThere are a few other things that I should mention that didn’t fit into other categories. The car is a 1967 but it has a 1968 grille and front fenders on it. The 1967 grille had round marker lights and this one has oblong lights. The fenders of both years are identical with the exception of the 1968 fenders having side marker lights. This isn’t an issue unless you’re looking for an original looking 1967, but if you are a heavily modified car like this one isn’t for you. The odometer says around 75k on it but it doesn’t work so the true mileage of the chassis is unknown.The driver’s window comes off track relatively easy when rolling it up and down and the passenger window crank handle slips sometimes. Both minor issues that I never cared about enough to fix. The drivers window goes back on track easily with lights hand pressure on the window glass when rolling it up and down.the shifter feels a little sloppy but works fine. I’ve done my best to list everything done to the car and be honest about the issues the car does have. I don’t have to sale it and I have no problem with keeping it. If you’re a serious buyer I would be glad to show it to you in person. I have a four post lift and you can inspect every inch of it in the air. With it being winter I can’t promise any test rides due to the snow and salt on the road but we can see what the conditions are like at the time if you want to come check it out. Also, with my work schedule and the holidays I might not be available on certain days or short notice to see the car so we will have to work out a showing. I’m not willing to budge much on the price so if you plan on offering me significantly less than my asking price then please save both of our time. I have a lot more money in this car than I’m asking, and though I don’t expect to make that money back, I won’t let it go for pennies on the dollar. If you’re wanting a pristine example of an original 1967 Camaro then this isn’t the car for you. If you’re wanting a trailer queen show car, this isn’t the car for you. If you’re wanting a fun, street shaking muscle car to cruise around in and take to local car shows and don’t mind doing a little work then this is the car for you!The car is located in Bismarck, ND and can be shipped at the expense and arrangement of the buyer. Cash or cashiers check for the full amount must be paid to me prior to the buyer or shipping agent taking possession of the vehicle. It is the buyer’s responsibility to perform a thorough inspection of the vehicle prior to purchase. Vehicle is being sold AS IS.Thanks for looking!

CAR DESCRIPTION FROM SELLER

1967 Camaro$29,500 oboPlease read my entire listing before contacting me!!!!! I am also selling the car locally so I reserve the right to end the eBay listing at any time. For sale is my 1967 Camaro SS. I’ve had this car since 2011, but it’s time to sale it so I can free up funds for another toy. The car has extensive modifications and turns heads and starts conversations wherever it goes. It’s a beautiful car that makes tremendous power, but it is by no means perfect. I say this not to scare anyone away, but I want to be completely up front and honest about what the car has and also what the car needs. The items the car needs are all relatively inexpensive. I just don’t have the motivation or the time to spend the money and purchase and install the parts to complete the build. I’ll start by listing everything done to the car and then go into more detail about specific areas and things that need to be addressed.Fuel injected 427 cubic inch Chevy small block making 540hp on an engine dyno (dyno video available upon request)Dart SHP blockProbe SRS forged pistons (10.75:1 compression)Scat forged rodsScat forged crankshaftAFR cylinder headsCustom Howard’s Cams camshaft (aggressive, lopey idle)Howard’s Tie-bar liftersScorpion roller rockers Melling oil pumpChampion 8 quart oil panMSD Streetfire distributorFiTech Meanstreet EFI fuel systemPolished single plane intake manifold Billet accessory driveHooker competition headersPypes Violator 3” exhaustStainless steel fuel tankMoser Ford 9” with fabricated housing and 4:11 gearsTh350 transmissionHughes torque converterDetroit Speed could springs in the front and rear leaf springsHotchkis subframe connectorsBoss 338 18” wheels (the wheels are currently plastidipped black but are gunmetal with a polished lip underneath. I wanted to see what it would look like with black wheels and never got around to removing the plastidip. It can be removed easily with a mild solvent such as wd40.)Paint and bodyThe paint job is in good condition with a few minor blemishes (a couple of minor chips that have been touched up and light scratches). The paint would benefit from and good buff from a detailer or someone experienced with a buffer. This isn’t a show car, it’s a driver’s car, but still shows well. The paint job was on the vehicle when I purchased it in 2011 and there is no bondo to my knowledge. There is one spot on the floor pan that was cut out and a new piece welded in at some point in the cars life.InteriorThe interior is in fair to good condition. There aren’t any rips, tears, or cracks in the upholstery, it’s just older. The chrome knobs are putting and the air vents are chipped up. It could also use new seatbelts. Headliner is in great shape.ElectricalThe car does have issues with the electrical system that have all manifested over the last couple of years. The turn signal switch is broken and the speedometer and fuel gauges no longer light up. On two occasions in the 8 years I’ve owned the car the headlights have suddenly stopped working for a short period of time. I would strongly recommend replacing the entire vehicle wiring harness with a Painless or American Autowire kit. These kits are relatively cheap (less than $500) and all of the car’s electrical issues would be fixed. Also, the aftermarket oil pressure, temperature, and voltage gauge lights are not hooked up. I rarely drive the car at night so I didn’t plan on booking them up until I replaced the wiring harness. EngineThe engine has no stories. It has less than 5000 miles on it, runs strong, and makes plenty of power.it was built by Skip White Performance outbid Kingsport, TN and has a FiTech fuel injection system on it.Drivetrain The transmission should be replaced. The car drives fine with the one in it, but the engine makes way too much power for the little th350 to handle and it slips once it hits second gear. I can replace it with a built FTI th400 if the buyer chooses, but the price will reflect it. The rearend is bulletproof and has less than 300 miles on it.SuspensionThe front end is sloppy and no longer holds alignment. The front tie rod ends, ball joints, and bushings should be replaced. Full kits are available for less than $300.MiscellaneousThere are a few other things that I should mention that didn’t fit into other categories. The car is a 1967 but it has a 1968 grille and front fenders on it. The 1967 grille had round marker lights and this one has oblong lights. The fenders of both years are identical with the exception of the 1968 fenders having side marker lights. This isn’t an issue unless you’re looking for an original looking 1967, but if you are a heavily modified car like this one isn’t for you. The odometer says around 75k on it but it doesn’t work so the true mileage of the chassis is unknown.The driver’s window comes off track relatively easy when rolling it up and down and the passenger window crank handle slips sometimes. Both minor issues that I never cared about enough to fix. The drivers window goes back on track easily with lights hand pressure on the window glass when rolling it up and down.the shifter feels a little sloppy but works fine. I’ve done my best to list everything done to the car and be honest about the issues the car does have. I don’t have to sale it and I have no problem with keeping it. If you’re a serious buyer I would be glad to show it to you in person. I have a four post lift and you can inspect every inch of it in the air. With it being winter I can’t promise any test rides due to the snow and salt on the road but we can see what the conditions are like at the time if you want to come check it out. Also, with my work schedule and the holidays I might not be available on certain days or short notice to see the car so we will have to work out a showing. I’m not willing to budge much on the price so if you plan on offering me significantly less than my asking price then please save both of our time. I have a lot more money in this car than I’m asking, and though I don’t expect to make that money back, I won’t let it go for pennies on the dollar. If you’re wanting a pristine example of an original 1967 Camaro then this isn’t the car for you. If you’re wanting a trailer queen show car, this isn’t the car for you. If you’re wanting a fun, street shaking muscle car to cruise around in and take to local car shows and don’t mind doing a little work then this is the car for you!The car is located in Bismarck, ND and can be shipped at the expense and arrangement of the buyer. Cash or cashiers check for the full amount must be paid to me prior to the buyer or shipping agent taking possession of the vehicle. It is the buyer’s responsibility to perform a thorough inspection of the vehicle prior to purchase. Vehicle is being sold AS IS.Thanks for looking!

BASIC CAR INFORMATION
Price:	28500 USD
Make:	Chevrolet
Model:	Camaro
Year:	1967
Mileage:	76000 MI

CONTACT SELLER

Chevrolet Camaro 1967

See also

1967 Ford Mustang

1969 Chevrolet C10/K10

1968 Pontiac Bonneville

1941 Buick Eight Special Series 40